Backpacking Series: Fitting a Backpack

The following information will assist you in choosing the right bag on your own or to insure that a salesperson is doing their job.

Your height does not determine which backpack is suitable. You need a measure of your back from A to B (see diagram).

Have a friend assist you. Tilt your head forward as it will help your friend locate the bony lump at the base of your neck. This is A. They can use a piece of masking tape for reference if necessary.

Locate the pointy protrusions (iliac crest) on the front of your hips by sliding your hands down the side of your torso. Once you locate the crest, point your thumbs (hands on hip pose) toward each other on a parallel line. Where this imaginary line (or placed masking tape) crosses the spine is B.

Your friend will then measure the distance, following the natural curve of your back, from A to B .

You will mostly likely fall into one of these 3 categories:
Small - up to 44cm/17.5", Medium/Regular - 45c m to 49cm/18" to 19.5", Large/Tall - 50cm/20" and up.

Armed with this information you can now try on some packs. Start with weighted items supplied by the store; items of personal gear packed into stuff sacks. Distribute these throughout a pack's interior, keeping the weight close to your body with the heaviest portion near your shoulder blades.

1. Loosen the pack's shoulder straps, loadlifter straps and hip belt. (see "The Backpack")

2. Slip your arms through the shoulder straps.

3. Position the hipbelt so it basically straddles your hipbones (iliac crest); close the buckle and make the hipbelt straps snug. The belt should completely, comfortably cover your hips, but its 2 ends should not touch. If the belt is too loose or too tight, reposition the buckle pieces on the hipbelt straps. If this doesn't give you a secure fit, you may have to try a different pack or hipbelt. Do not tighten your hipbelt excessively. Keep it snug, but if it's too tight or too long on the trail, you'll have sore spots on your hips the next morning.

4. Cinch the shoulder straps down tightly, then ease the tension slightly.

5. Look sideways in a mirror. The padded sections of the shoulder straps should wrap around the crest of your shoulders comfortably and attach to the frame about 2.5cm/1" below that point. No gaps should appear.

6. Check your load-lifter straps. These should attach to your shoulder straps at a point just above your collarbone and just below the top of your shoulders. From there, they should rise up to join with the frame at an angle of between 40 and 50 degrees. If the angle is higher than that, your frame is too long. Any lower and your shoulders will carry too much of the load.

7. Check the shoulder strap length and width:
• The buckle on the strap should be a hand-width below your armpit that it won't chafe.
• The straps should be far enough apart that they don't squeeze your neck, but close enough together that they don't slip off of your shoulders during hiking. The width is sometimes adjustable.
• Women need to pay special attention to the fit of shoulder straps. On some unisex packs, the distance between shoulder straps may be too wide, or the straps themselves are wide enough to gouge an armpit or breast. If you find a good fit is elusive, seek out a pack designed specifically for women.

8. Check for a good torso fit. If the pack fits you correctly, you should be able to redistribute the weight of the pack between your shoulders and your hips simply by loosening and tightening your shoulder straps slightly. Adjust the sternum strap. Position it about 2" below your collarbone. You should be able to breathe comfortably when the strap is fastened. It is not essential that you keep your sternum strap fastened at all times. It is most helpful when you are negotiating uneven terrain.

9. Check for comfort:
• Does the pack feel good on your back?
• Does it pinch or bind or unusually restrict your movement?
• Can you look up without hitting the pack with your head?
• Can you squat down without cutting off the circulation to your legs?

This may seem like a lot to keep in mind, but all of the above will become automatic as you gain experience. Now walk around with your pack. Climb and descend a flight of stairs. Hop from spot to spot. Reach. Walk a line. If anything is pinching, try adjusting the various straps.

Backpacking Series: The Backpack

Special Note: With all outdoor related products, manufacturers will offer a range of prices and item options. You will probably be guided by your needs and your budget. The top of the line products may include options that are unnecessary. On the opposite end of the spectrum are the cheap offerings. You can bet that there are reasons why they are the cheapest and you will most likely regret your purchase once you are in the field.

Purchase from manufacturers and outdoor stores who have an established reputation for customer service and satisfaction.

How big should your pack be? The length of your trip is one consideration. It will have to be roomy enough to carry your personal gear, clothing, and food. Backpacks are measured either in litres or in cubic inches, depending on your country's standard. For longer trips, 72 liters (5000-6000 cu.in.) is a good norm.

Another consideration is your body frame. Obviously the bigger/taller you are, the greater the capacity you can carry. The measure of the length of your back is used to good order in determining the right fit, (we will discuss this in more detail in our next article).

Finally, female torsos, hips, and shoulders will, more often than not, be smaller than a male's. It is therefore best for females to purchase a bag specifically designed for them. Fortunately, many of the top manufacturers have an array of excellent bags with design modifications for women.

How important are the hipbelt and other straps that adorn a pack? The principle behind carrying a heavy pack is that the weight should be borne by the hips and not the shoulders. For comfort and function, the hipbelt should be well padded, and the padded section should not meet in the front. There has to be ample room to tighten the belt. If fitting a bag, it is good practice to try on bags with the jacket you will wear while hiking.

The various straps that are found on good backpacks are functionally very important. Each has an engineering role to play in delivering the best backpacking experience. In essence , they help to mold the bag to the best position on your back. Compression straps will compress the load. The sternum strap helps to keep the shoulder straps from slipping to the shoulder points. The load lifters, besides doing what its name implies, helps also to pull the bag snuggly to your back.

It is best to stay away from bags that rely on too many zippers to close compartments, especially the main compartment. Zippers can break and dirt get into the teeth thus rendering the zipper useless and compromising the contents of the compartments.

Are more compartments better? This is very much a preference issue. I, as do most hikers and professional guides, like the one large compartment that is loaded from the top and then closed by a drawstring. The top flap of the bag is then draped over and cinched by straps.

With a little packing experience it's an easy matter to locate items you will most likely not need during the day in the bottom reaches.

An option that is most worthwhile to have is a detachable top section. Better backpacks will include this option. This top section thus converts to a daypack/fanny pack with an attached hipbelt which can be used for any day hiking from basecamp.

Backpacking Series: Trekking Poles

There is a legitimate debate about the value of trekking poles for backcountry hiking. There is a camp that consists of old guard, machismo, and younger hikers who view pole use as unnecessary and over-hyped. I used to be in the camp that derided the notion that poles made any difference.

A knee injury prompted me to employ the use of trekking poles. I saw this as a temporary measure that would be discontinued once the knee recuperated. During the process of healing, I began to appreciate the advantages of pole use. During steep sections, regardless whether it is dirt, boulder, mud, sand, scree, etc., poles helped established a natural pace/rhythm, balance, and, when descending, helped to spare pounding on the knees.

Limited studies have supported the notion that trekking poles do reduce impact on the knee joint. In a totally unscientific study, clients who hiked with us, and were given trekking poles by the company, were sold on their future use. I should add that one pole is better than none and two poles are better than one.

It is important to note that trekking poles are not a panacea for knee injuries or the need to institute a program of physical preparedness before you hike.

If you do decide to incorporate trekking poles into your future hiking, there are options available. You can use a long stick/staff (tend to be heavier than other options and clumsy to carry where some scrambling may be called for), ski poles, and the newer, lighter, and adjustable trekking poles. These come in varying prices dependent on features. A visit to your favourite outdoor store or web search will introduce you to these options.

There is an art to using trekking poles. They may initially seem awkward, but patience and familiarity will eventually make it a very comfortable experience. To assist you in their use you can view this video.

Good luck and happy hiking!

Sea Kayaking with Pacific Orcas

During my 23 years of guiding, I have been treated to many special moments in the outdoors. To rank one more special than another is like comparing apples to oranges. Sea kayaking in the orca waters of Johnstone Strait will remain one of those special moments.

Johnstone Strait is located near the northeastern tip of Vancouver Island in British Columbia. It is witness to one of nature's most fascinating annual occurrences. Families (pods) of orcas, also known as killer whales, congregate here during the summer months. Their arrival in the strait coincides with the return of Pacific salmon as they return to spawn in waterways along the B.C. coast. The orcas take advantage of the salmon's return to feed and to socialize with other pods.

The orcas fearsome reputation originated with sightings of them attacking whales and other marine life. The Romans coined the word "orca" meaning "demons from hell" and Spanish whalers referred to them as "whale killers". Recent research has established them as intelligent, social creatures.

Orcas are not whales but are the largest member of the dolphin family, with adult males reaching lengths of 10 m (33') and weighing as much as 10 tonnes (2200 lbs). A large dorsal fin on its back and distinct black and white markings make them easily distinguishable.

Orcas come in different types. Most of the orcas in the Johnstone Strait area are "residents". Resident orcas do not stray very far from their home waters and subsist mainly on salmon. Another type are the "transients". Transients roam over larger stretches of coastal waters, travel in smaller pods, and favour seals, sea lions, and porpoises in their diet. Finally there are the "offshores". Not much is known about the offshores as they travel a wide range and tend to avoid protected waters.

Socially, resident pods range from 20-50 members and are maternally ruled. Family units stay together and do not disperse. A maternal group may contain four generations whose ages could well parallel a human family. Females may reach an age of 80, and usually give birth around 15 years of age. Orcas belong to a matrilineal genealogy, that is, an individual’s ancestry is traced through it’s mother and her relatives. To avoid inbreeding it is thought that males mate with cows in other pods, so paternity is usually not known.

Orcas identify each other and other groups by vocalization called dialects. These high pitched squeals, squawks and screams form their “language”. To the trained ear it can be used to identify pods. Dialect also distinguishes resident, transient, and offshore orcas. The vocalizations appear to be used as a communication device to stay in touch with family members or to identify other orca pods. Different families do not appear to communicate vocally because they have different dialects.
Recent research development.

Find out more about orcas by visiting a research station in Johnstone Strait.

See more photos.

West Coast Trail: Phil Daykin Lightkeeper

It took a hardy individual to settle along the rugged west coast of Vancouver Island in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Communication to the nearest urban centre, Victoria, was limited to occasional visits from supply vessels and a telegraph system which would experience interrupted periods due to downed lines.

W.P. (Phil) Daykin, his wife and two sons, were the first keepers assigned to the newly built lighthouse at Carmanah Point. It was 1891. The lighthouse is situated along the present day West Coast Trail, and served as an important beacon to vessels with archaic navigational aids. Fog and coastal storms took their toll, as over 200 ships wrecked along this coast, resulting in it being called the "Graveyard of the Pacific".

Phil kept a daily diary during his tempestuous stay at Carmanah from 1891 to 1912. A man of few words, his diary offered little insight other than the occasional rant. If a supply ship was late, did not deliver what he ordered , or food spoiled, he freely complained to his superiors in Victoria. His gruff ways often irritated and alienated them. And he used expletives freely. His liberal verbal assaults may have been fueled by his frustrations, and/or his enjoyment of spirits, as a bottle of scotch each day was his rule.

The stay at Carmanah took its toll on Phil and his family. His wife Anna developed pneumonia and died in 1906. His youngest son William, 17, was killed when the line holding the supply trolley he was riding from the beach up to the lighthouse snapped and he was flung to his death. The other son Ted went hunting with a friend and failed to return to the lighthouse. A search party found their boat drifting on a nearby lake with all equipment including guns, but no boys. Their disappearance is still a mystery.

Age, depression, deteriorating health, and harsh conditions caused Phil to ask for reassignment to a less demanding location. His request was constantly denied, as superiors offered a litany of reasons why reassignment was not possible. More likely, his earlier complaints and undiplomatic relationship with superiors, influenced any hope of any new posting.

Finally, Phil was assigned to an easier responsibility, the lighthouse in Victoria. Irony of ironies, as he developed pneumonia and died within the year. It was 1912.

Bill Mason: An Introduction

As I enter the fall of my years, I look back at the people who have had a profound influence on my life. Bill Mason was one of those people who spoke to my soul.

I never met Bill, nor have I ever conversed with him, in any conventional sense. Bill was a Canadian, born in Winnipeg, Manitoba who died of cancer in 1988. He loved nature and he loved to canoe. He coupled these loves with a creative side that manifested itself in books, art, and film. For over 20 years he produced a multitude of films, on his own terms, for Canada's iconic National Film Board. I met Bill for the first time in his Oscar nominated film, "Waterwalker".

"Anyone who has seen a Mason film can appreciate his ability to convey his great love of nature through his films. You escape the distractions of the city by simply watching one of his films and enjoying the beauty of the wild while being educated at the same time. What a refreshing change from the sterile documentaries of today that barely scratch the surface or seek to shock rather than inform. Mason's films are a celebration of nature devoid of preachy sermons." Albert Ohayon/NFB collections expert

Perhaps Bill will have something of importance for you. Ladies and gentlemen may I introduce you to, Bill Mason.

Robert Service: Bard of the Yukon

I was introduced to the poetry of Robert Service while a high school student in Montreal in the 1960s. My grade 11 literature teacher read us his poem, "Spell of the Yukon". The conscious words transformed internally into flow of feelings and imagination that profoundly affected me. I didn't understand the reasons for its impact, but I came to be drawn to the idea of visiting the Yukon one day.

It wasn't until the early 1990s that I finally fulfilled my dream of traveling to the Yukon. Over the course of the last 20 years I have hiked, toured, canoed, and rafted some of the best wilderness that the Yukon has to offer. This is the only true way to understand the words of Robert Service.

I won't bother to relate his biography, although it is most interesting. I figure you can research that for yourself, if you are of a mind to do so.

Before reading the "Spell of the Yukon", you should know that Robert Service wrote most of his work in Dawson City around the time of the Klondike Goldrush. If you enjoyed the poem, you may want to read more of his works. I have provided links to 2 of his most famous poems that he reads for his audience - Cremation of Sam McGee & Shooting of Dan McGrew. And, if the connection goes deeper, I imagine you will visit the Yukon one day.

I wanted the gold, and I sought it,
I scrabbled and mucked like a slave.
Was it famine or scurvy — I fought it;
I hurled my youth into a grave.
I wanted the gold, and I got it —
Came out with a fortune last fall, —
Yet somehow life’s not what I thought it,
And somehow the gold isn't all. No! There’s the land. (Have you seen it?)
It’s the cussedest land that I know,
From the big, dizzy mountains that screen it
To the deep, deathlike valleys below.
Some say God was tired when He made it;
Some say it’s a fine land to shun;
Maybe; but there’s some as would trade it
For no land on earth — and I'm one. You come to get rich (damned good reason);
You feel like an exile at first;
You hate it like hell for a season,
And then you are worse than the worst.
It grips you like some kinds of sinning;
It twists you from foe to a friend;
It seems it’s been since the beginning;
It seems it will be to the end. I've stood in some mighty-mouthed hollow
That’s plumb-full of hush to the brim;
I've watched the big, husky sun wallow
In crimson and gold, and grow dim,
Till the moon set the pearly peaks gleaming,
And the stars tumbled out, neck and crop;
And I've thought that I surely was dreaming,
With the peace o' the world piled on top. The summer — no sweeter was ever;
The sunshiny woods all athrill;
The grayling aleap in the river,
The bighorn asleep on the hill.
The strong life that never knows harness;
The wilds where the caribou call;
The freshness, the freedom, the farness —
O God! how I'm stuck on it all. The winter! the brightness that blinds you,
The white land locked tight as a drum,
The cold fear that follows and finds you,
The silence that bludgeons you dumb.
The snows that are older than history,
The woods where the weird shadows slant;
The stillness, the moonlight, the mystery,
I've bade 'em good-by — but I can't. There’s a land where the mountains are nameless,
And the rivers all run God knows where;
There are lives that are erring and aimless,
And deaths that just hang by a hair;
There are hardships that nobody reckons;
There are valleys unpeopled and still;
There’s a land — oh, it beckons and beckons,
And I want to go back — and I will. They're making my money diminish;
I'm sick of the taste of champagne.
Thank God! when I'm skinned to a finish
I'll pike to the Yukon again.
I'll fight — and you bet it’s no sham-fight;
It’s hell! — but I've been there before;
And it’s better than this by a damsite —
So me for the Yukon once more. There’s gold, and it’s haunting and haunting;
It’s luring me on as of old;
Yet it isn't the gold that I'm wanting
So much as just finding the gold.
It’s the great, big, broad land 'way up yonder,
It’s the forests where silence has lease;
It’s the beauty that thrills me with wonder,
It’s the stillness that fills me with peace.

Yukon River: The Steaks

After spending some time in the wilderness, the lure of certain foods begins to attack the senses. The night before we were due to canoe into Dawson City, our group gathered around the campfire. The topic of restaurant food at our celebratory dinner was high on the agenda.

The "regulars" appeared: ice cream, hamburger, fries, salad, chocolate cake, anything without sand or dirt. Then, there was Horst's choice .

Horst was, as you may have guessed, from Germany. This big strapping fellow had a deep, strong authoritative voice, that no doubt served him well as a special forces policeman in Berlin.

"Len, I must have a big steak. It will be the biggest steak in Dawson. Where would I find such a steak?"

I cautioned Horst that steaks are extremely expensive in Dawson. The largest on a menu would be around 16 oz, as most people could not eat, nor afford, more. I expected that this reality check would cause Horst to lower his expectations.

"Good! I am pleased. I will have two steaks."

But - the cost, the indigestion?

"I will tell you a story, Len. My father was a hard working man in the factory. He grew up during the tough times before the war. He looked after his family. When my mother died, he continued his daily routine at home and at work. He never took a holiday away from home. He used to talk to me about the places he wanted to see, but there never was enough money to see his dreams come true.

When I became a policeman and was making good pay, I would arrange travel trips for my retired father so that he could see all the places that he would talk about. I was happy that I could do that for my father.

After he died, I was pleased that his retirement days were filled with good memories.

I went to the lawyer to hear about the few possessions he had. The lawyer explained that the important things in his life would be passed on to me, as well as all the money that my father had in his savings account at the bank. The lawyer had me look at my father's bank information. I looked at my father's bank book. 'This must be a mistake,' I said to the lawyer. He said that there was no mistake. I looked at the balance again - it was over one million deutschmarks - that would be over one million dollars Canadian! How could this be? I was helping him pay some bills and sending him on trips.

The lawyer said that it is true. My father had won a big lottery a number of years ago. The lawyer said that many men who came from my father's generation were afraid that the economy would be bad again, like it was before and after the war. They held on to their money for fear that they would have enough to live if inflation made the deutschmark almost worthless again.

I will not be my father - I will have the steaks."

Horst did have his steaks, with all the fixings. He gladly paid the more than $75 dollar tab.

West Coast Trail: ##@!*%# Cat

I went for a walk last night to gain some relief from the oppressive heat. A woman, who was visibly upset, had witnessed a cat being hit by a car. She stopped her vehicle to give assistance, as the offending car drove off without stopping. The cat did not survive the impact.

So, this is not a morality moment. The value of life, human or animal, is in the eye of the beholder, as is any judgment of responses. My empathy for the woman or the animal is not the story, but, interestingly, it did remind of something that happened on the West Coast Trail many years ago.

I was leading a group on the West Coast Trail. There was another guide, Bert, who led trips from a Vancouver community centre each summer. Over the years, we had met on a number of occasions at various campsites, and had struck up a professional friendship.

As our group approached our campsite one trip, I noticed Bert walking about on the beach with what appeared to be a common house cat on a leash. This definitely piqued my interest. I quickly completed my responsibility to my group and walked over to talk with Bert.

"You're probably wondering about the cat."

He was a champion of the obvious.

He explained that fate had dealt him a group of nine women on this trip. As they were stopped for some rest and water along the trail, the cat appeared out of nowhere. The women were filled with empathy and wonder about the cat. Bert had suggested that it may have jumped one of the recreational boats that anchored along sheltered beaches, or may have just wandered from a local community and got lost in its travels. Bert had further suggested that the cat be left to its own resources, and nature would determine its fate. Not the answer that the women wanted to hear!

"And, that's how I was enlisted to look after this ##@*! cat. At the first opportunity, I'll accidentally lose the cat, if you get what I mean."

I did.

Our groups separated. It was four days later that we met up again at a beach campsite. As we were setting up, I looked over to Bert's group. I could not see Bert or the cat. When time permitted I walked over to their campfire and struck up a conversation with some of the women in Bert's group.

"I see that you don't have that cat anymore," expecting that Bert had carried through with his plan to "lose" the cat.

Oh, no, the women said. Bert and the cat were inseparable. They did everything together - eat, prim, sleep, walk. As a matter of fact, the cat was in Bert's tent and they were enjoying an afternoon nap.

I didn't get a chance to speak with Bert that day and his group was gone the next morning before we got up.

It wasn't until a couple of years later that I met up with Bert again along the West Coast Trail.

"Take in any more lost creatures?", I asked.

We had a nice chat. He explained that he had bonded with the cat, something that had caught him off-guard. The cat was now part of his family at home. We talked further about guide things until he and I had to return to our respective groups.

As he walked back on the beach, I could not know that I would never see Bert again. I imagined him tugging on the cat with an improvised leash. I smiled - it was a warm smile.

UVA/UVB, SPF, Sunscreen/SunBlock: What Does It All Mean?

As our consciousness about the sun's effect on our skin is being raised, we are paying more attention to products that will offer the best measure of protection. The number of products, claims, and technical jargon leave many uncertain about what constitutes the appropriate protection.

I hope to offer some fundamental understanding, which may assist in the right option for you. Ultimately, it is important to note that information is not static and is ever changing. Your doctor or dermatologist is your best consultant in this matter.

UVA: are ultraviolet long-wave solar rays that penetrate the skin more deeply and are considered the main cause of wrinkling and, studies suggest, skin related cancers.

UVB: are ultraviolet short-wave solar rays that are more potent in producing sunburn and give rise to melanoma.

Sunscreen: chemically absorbs UV rays.

Sunblock: physically deflects UV rays.

SPF: stands for "sun protection factor" against skin reddening from UVB - it does not apply to UVA protection. The time it takes for the skin to begin to redden will differ between persons, as many factors can affect the rate. Assuming that you begin to redden after 30 minutes then a SPF15 sunscreen will offer 15 times the 30 minutes of protection, or 7.5 hours of protection.

SPF15 blocks 93% of UVB
SPF 30 blocks 97% of UVB
SPF 45 blocks 98 % of UVB

As the degree of protection is marginal after SPF15, it is the recommended minimum level. Regardless, the Skin Cancer Foundation recommends reapplication every 2 hours and after swimming.

Broad Spectrum Protection: the phrase may have a different regional or international application. It is best to check with a pharmacist to see if it is present in the sunscreen or sunblock you are purchasing. If it is present, SPF15 will do a good job against UVB and short UVA rays; if it also contains avobenzone, zinc oxide, or titanium dioxide, it should be effective against the entire UVA spectrum.

What is the best protection?
Avoid the sun between 10 am and 4 pm, use sunscreen, sun protective clothing, sunglasses, and sit in the shade.