Breaking News From the North Pole

It's time to take a break over the holidays. I want to thank the many of you who continue to read my posts that highlight the people, history, and stories that have been part of my life as an adventure guide.

Regardless of the faith that comforts and guides you, I wish you and your family and friends all the best. Merry Christmas!! I will see you in the new year.

I wanted you to be the first to hear the breaking news from the North Pole!

The gathered knew this time would come;
The mood was sombre, downright glum,
Muffled sobs, and cracking voices,
Acceptance and change were the only choices.
A frozen quiet filled the air,
As Santa spoke in Christmas Square,
“Long ago I chose this role,
To join you all here at the Pole,
We all hope to slow and to bend
Age and time - no man’s friend,
Reality has no emotional part,
Neither a preference, neither a heart;
I’ve made my choice, without much remorse,
Confidence reigns in my decided course.

Who, I thought, would fill my role,
To be the head elf, the jolly old soul;
A person of conscience, a person of will,
A person with character, wisdom, and skill?
So, without further fuss, and without further due,
The new face of Christmas will now come in view,
Roll back that curtain, and reveal who has won,
Reveal who is now the new number one!”

I was leaving my business, with nothing to do,
I was perfectly suited to head a new crew.
“Changes are coming !”, said I who was chosen,
“Cause I don’t do well in climes that are frozen.
We will pack up and move to a sunnier base,
Cut back on work, adopt an easier pace.
Reindeer are costly, and the sled is too old,
They’re now listed on eBay, soon to be sold.
I don’t like to fly, let alone stay up late,
So I’ve asked FedEx to step up to the plate,

All the presents will get there, none will be lost,
But all kids will be billed, a small shipping cost.
Our workforce - too large, we must become leaner,
Profit dictates that leaner is meaner,
I see you are worried, I can see for myself,
So I’ve urged Facebook followers to hire an elf.
Profit and more profit is the direction we’ll go,
Bah humbug to tradition, bah humbug to snow!
Our toys will be imported from China each year,
“Red ink to black ink” our new mantra for cheer,
Our business must profit to reflect our new ways,
Change must drive us to more prosperous days.”

I can’t say my ideas were met with applause,
By either the elves or old Santa Claus,
My vision was thrashed, there would be no encore,
Just a boot in the butt on the way out the door;
Santa fired me, I am again unemployed,
In rejection therapy, hope rests with Herr Freud,
But, I have new ideas, ones with some legs,
I am looking to profit from Easter eggs.

Yukon River: Murder at Hoochikoo

Every time I passed the location of the old North West Mounted Police post of Hootchikoo on the Yukon River, I had the canoes come together and we drifted. It was the perfect time to relate one of the most grizzly murders that happened at the time of the Klondike Goldrush.

Fred Clayson, a Skagway gold buyer and Lynn Relfe, a young bartender from Dawson City were leaving the Yukon and travelling together. They had stopped at Minto, one of the roadhouses built to feed and shelter travellers between Dawson and Whitehorse, Yukon. There they met Ole Olsen, a telegraph lineman, who invited them to join him for Christmas dinner with his friend, Corporal Ryan of the NWMP at Hootchikoo. They all left Minto together on Christmas day, 1899 . They never arrived for their dinner.

George O’Brien, an unsavoury character with a criminal background, and an accomplice were waiting in ambush to rob unsuspecting travellers. Relfe, Clayson, and Olsen became their victims. They were shot, belongings stolen, and their clothes burned, before their dismembered bodies were stuffed through a hole in the ice of the Yukon River.

After the murder, O’Brien is believed to have killed the only witness to the crime, his accomplice. He then slowly continued on his way up the Yukon River. At Tagish he was arrested for theft, but not for the yet unknown murders of Relfe, Olsen, and Clayson.

The failure of Olsen to arrive at Hootchikoo caused suspicion to grow that something bad had happened. Telegraph communication between various NWMP posts confirmed that the three men had not been seen. At about the same time, Clayson’s family had hired a private investigator, Philip Maguire, to search for the missing and overdue Fred.

NWMP Constable Pennycuick and Maguire teamed up to find some evidence of what could have happened to Clayson.

They made their way to the area that the three missing men were last seen and to where O’Brien was seen at about the same time.

They located O’Brien’s camp and began a meticulous piecing together of a terrible murder and the accumulation of evidence that would convict the murderer. They found:

- Remnants of burned clothing

- Frozen blood on a trail to the river

- Receipts in Olsen’s name

- A tooth which later matched Relfe’s shattered jaw

- Business keys belonging to Clayson

- Shell casings that matched O’Brien’s rifle left behind

- An axe that the murders used to create an ambush blind

They carefully catalogued all the evidence. There was enough here to charge O’Brien with murder, but locating the bodies and confirming that a crime had taken place, would cement their case. Finally the ice on the Yukon River melted and the bodies were found, confirming the brutal nature of the crime.

O’Brien, who was being held in a cell at Tagish, was arrested in June 1900 for the murders of Olsen, Clayson, and Relfe.

The trial took place the following July in Dawson City. It was covered nationally by newspapers. A very strong case was presented by prosecutors in the form of physical evidence and testimony of over 60 witnesses. Together they painted a complete picture of what happened.

After less than two hours of deliberation O’Brien was found guilty of murder and sentenced to hang on August 23, 1901. He maintained his innocence to the end, cursing all those who had a hand in his forthcoming execution. It was 7:35 a.m. when the trapped door opened and O’Brien was executed for murder of Clayson, Relfe, and Olsen. A small, silent group of men watched his final moments. There were no tears.

Interested in testing your sleuthing? Sgt. Higgins of the N.W.M.P. Gold Bottom Detachment, just outside of Dawson City, is investigating the murder of a prospector on his claim. He has released the evidence that he has mustered in the hope that someone can help solve this crime.

Physical Evidence

Suspect Interviews I

Suspect Interviews II

Suspect Descriptions

Boat Registry

West Coast Trail: The Janet Cowan

The rugged west coast of Vancouver Island was the scene of many a shipwreck during the 1800s. In my last blog post, I related the story of the Russian freighter Uzbekistan. Fortunately no lives were lost. This wasn’t always the case, as was witnessed with the Valencia (coming in a future blog post) and the Janet Cowan.

The Janet Cowan was a 4-masted barque that was caught in a violent gale and wrecked a few kilometers south of Pachena Point or not far from the location of the Uzbekistan’s final resting spot.

It was New Year’s Eve, 1895, when the barque, enroute from South Africa to Vancouver, BC, crashed on the rocks. There were 29 seafarers aboard under the command of Captain Thompson.

Thompson ordered the evacuation of the barque, as the constant battering of the waves against the hull would eventually send it on its side and break the vessel apart. A seaman bravely jumped into the cold and tempestuous surf and dragged a line to shore. The line was rigged with a bosun’s chair. Slowly the crew made their way to safety. In the tradition of the sea, Captain Thompson was the last to leave the ship. He lost his grip on the line and the bosun’s chair flipped, resulting in Thompson being dragged to shore, upside down, through the water. He survived the ordeal, but the worst for wear.

With constant snow or rain, cold temperatures, few supplies, and some survivors suffering from hypothermia, the decision was made to send nine of the strongest seamen in search of help. Their plan was to follow the telegraph line that linked Victoria with the lighthouses. Those who remained, would set up a camp on a bluff overlooking the ocean, from where they hoped to flag a passing boat. After eleven days of cold, miserable weather, five crew members succumbed to hypothermia, including Captain Thompson.

On January 11, an American tug, Tyee, rescued the survivors. A crewman from the tug recounted what he saw; “A sight ...... that will not be forgotten for years to come. Seated about a fire were 13 men all wearing an expression of utter helplessness and misery.”

The nine other men reached a cabin along the telegraph trail and were rescued by Phil Daykin, the lightkeeper of Carmanah, who set off on foot along the trail after being telegraphed by the Tyee.

The old telegraph trail, established in 1890 to link Victoria to coastal lighthouses, was rough at best. Winter storms often brought down the line and washed out the trail. After the wreck of the Janet Cowan, Canada's federal government talked about adding a lighthouse and developing the trail into a life-saving system, but no action was taken until one of the worst maritime disasters in modern history occurred on January 22, 1906, with the sinking of the passenger ship Valencia.

Read the newspaper account of the Janet Cowan tragedy.

West Coast Trail: Last Great Shipwreck

The West Coast Trail has been witness to many shipwrecks during the 1800s. Most of these were the result of fierce coastal storms and poor navigational aids. As charts and more sophisticated navigational equipment evolved, the likelihood of any major shipwreck lessened - that was until the Russian freighter Uzbekistan ran up on a reef on April 1, 1943.

The Uzbekistan was assigned to transporting supplies for the war effort, between the west coast and Vladivostok, Russia. The reason the Russian captain, P. Ovchinnikoff, ran his vessel straight onto shore near Darling Creek, and far off its intended course, is still a mystery.

Speculation is that the surfacing of a Japanese submarine near the lighthouse at Estevan Point, and subsequent shelling of the beach nearby on June 20, 1942, played a role. After the attack, west coast lighthouses were ordered to maintain black-out conditions to protect coastal installations. Without a lighthouse reference, it is quite possible the captain became disoriented and steamed into shore.

With the vessel settled high on the coastal shelf, the captain and crew had no alternative but to abandon ship and wade through shallow tide water to shore. The crew hiked the rough coastal trail to Bamfield, some 18 km (9 mi) away. They were picked up by a Canadian naval ship and returned to Victoria. No inquiry followed as the captain, his crew, and ship’s log were very quickly returned to Russia. The Canadian army was charged with guarding the vessel. Bored sentries used the vessel as target practice to ward off the tedium.

It wasn't long before water filled her hull and fierce coastal storms rolled her onto her side , eliminating any possibility of saving her. Looters took little time in taking advantage of the ship’s situation.

“Them waters was bad news for the skipper of that boat, but good for me! As soon as she started breaking up, I knew there was no hope of salvaging the whole thing, but there was lots of smaller bits for me to pick up! You can still see her boilers and some engine parts wedged on the beach at low tide there. Nothing you could haul in to sell, but a good reminder of that night she ran aground.”

Pieces from the steel hull from the Uzbekistan can still be seen today at low tide at Darling Creek by hikers along the West Coast Trail.

Klondike Goldrush Era Riverboat Found

A.J. Goddard, named for her owner (Seattle's Pacific Ironworks), was built in San Francisco and shipped to Alaska in pieces. It was carried over the Chilkoot Trail and re-assembled at Lake Bennett. Bennett was the staging area for the vast movement of goldrushers and supplies in 1897-98. It became one of more than 250 steamboats that carried miners and supplies on the Yukon River. In October 1901 it sank in heavy winds, ice, and waves at the north end of Lake Laberge.

Three crew, the captain, cook, and fireman drowned and were buried when after their bodies washed ashore. A crewman and engineer managed to make it to shore and lived to recount the sinking.

The archaeological find is a window on life aboard a riverboat during this era, as the vessel and its contents were perfectly preserved in the cold waters.

"The boiler door is open and the firewood they tossed in to get try to get up enough steam to get out of trouble is still in there with charring on it," marine archaeologist James Delgado said. "Somebody shrugged off their coat and kicked off their shoes as they tried to swim for it and that's still lying on the deck."

The vessel had its own repair shop, blacksmith's forge, an anvil, and a workbench. Dishes, stove, and canvas tent on the main deck provide a window on crew life on board. The most interesting find was a music machine with 3 vinyl records, one in such good condition it can be played today.

Digital imagery, to map the well preserved remains, has now been completed. Visit the 3D imagery to find out more about the work

An interesting side story is that of Clara Goddard, wife of AJ Goddard, who became the first female riverboat pilot in the north.

The Sourtoe Cocktail

The Sourtoe Cocktail has become a Dawson City tradition, and is exactly what it sounds like: an actual human toe that has been dehydrated, preserved in salt, and served in a drink.

The tradition was begun in 1973. Some locals decided that visitors could become honorary sourdoughs by downing an alcoholic drink with a severed toe in it. One of them, Dick Stevenson, had bought a cabin just outside Dawson that had belonged to two brothers who ran booze during the Prohibition. On one such dogsled journey during the winter, one of the brothers had his toe frozen and then amputated by the other brother. For whatever reason, they kept the toe preserved in alcohol until it was discovered by Dick Stevenson. By replacing sourdough with sourtoe, visitors could bypass the traditional method of becoming a sourdough which was by surviving the freezing of the Yukon River in September to its break-up in May. The kicker was that the toe must touch the drinker’s lips.


In 1980, a local miner was trying for the sourtoe record. After many glasses, he accidentally tipped his chair backwards and swallowed the toe. It was not recovered, a dread that many contemplating the tradition fear may happen to them. Thanks to the generosity of other amputees there is a healthy reserve of toes should further accidents occur.

For the brave among you, the ritual is played out nightly at Dawson City's Downtown Hotel's bar during the summer months. Initially it was required that the human toe be placed in an alcoholic drink, but times have changed. Nowadays you can enjoy the ritual with a Coke. By having the toe touch your your lips sometime during the process entitles you to membership in the exclusive “Sourtoe Cocktail Club” and one of over 60,000 brothers and sisters.

Rockies: The Hills are Alive with the Sound of Music

It's important to have a respect and caution when hiking through bear country. The Rockies are such a place.

We had a husband and wife, Ed and Marlene, who joined our group because Marlene had an extreme fear of bears. Her husband had convinced her that she would be safe traveling with a group, and professional guides. She wasn't entirely convinced, but was not going to disappoint her husband, nor allow a fear to keep her from doing something she had dreamed of for many years.

We met with our group the night before our trip to discuss the hike ahead. Throughout our orientation session it was obvious that Marlene was uncomfortable. As the topic turned to safety in bear country, she had numerous questions that pointed to an anxiety that needed attention and calming. Her husband mentioned that some well-meaning friends had given her a book entitled, "Worst Grizzly Bear Attacks". She managed to read a few of the short stories before Ed took the book from her to avoid any further damage.

We assured Marlene that we followed a safe protocol in bear territory and never had any serious encounters. Besides, there had never been a recorded bear attack against a group. She offered that she heard that singing was a good way to announce one's presence while hiking. If this would comfort her, then we would do that for her. She said yes. My assisting guides were tasked with fulfilling my promise.

Over six days of hiking through some spectacular mountain scenery, we sang constantly. Someone in the group suggested that we rename the company, Van Trapp Expeditions. Aside of keeping the hills alive with the sound of music, we placed her in the middle of the group while hiking (bears would have to eat through 4 hikers, back and front before reaching her), made sure to locate her tent in the middle of all the others at night (the idea came from old westerns where wagon trains were circled at night), and gave her some bear spray to cuddle up with. I don't think Ed welcomed his demotion.

A successful battle plan had worked its magic. Our last night was a campsite adjacent to Mount Assiniboine. We celebrated our hike, talked about producing an album of our mountain songs, and rejoiced in the fact that we had seen no bears. A full moon, cloudless skies, and a ceiling of celestial points of light supplied an ambiance for a perfect end to a perfect week of hiking. Tomorrow we would break camp early, hike to the trailhead, and return to our separate lives.

I felt good about this hike as I lay my head down in the tent. Sometime, as I reviewed the week in my mind's eye, I fell off into a deep sleep.

What? What's the commotion? Shouts? I rose to my elbows, trying to shake the drowsiness from my head. Something was in camp and causing everyone to stir. We called to each other from within our tents. I instructed all to stay in the tents while the guides exited cautiously to see what our visitor was up to. We hoped that the kaffufle would frighten off the intruder. As we eyeballed the camp area, we became aware of an argument that was being played out in the middle tent. Apparently Marlene was insisting that Ed turn over the bear spray to her. He was afraid that she would, in a panic, fire off the spray indiscriminately, and he would be the victim. She, on the other hand, told her husband that she only wanted to read the instructions, to be prepared.

Nothing about! We told the hikers that everything was fine. Some called out wanting to know what came into camp. My junior guide blurted out that it was only a porcupine. Calmness returned. We went to each tent and made sure that people were once again comfortable. Two ladies, who were seasoned hikers, called us over to their tent. "That creature was outside our tent and it wasn't any @#!!&%$ porcupine!" We just looked at each other.

Leave No Trace and the Wilderness

Henry David Thoreau once said that the wilderness is the preservation of the world. We are all stewards of our environment. The degree of that stewardship is only limited by our education, commitment, and level of impact.

I think most of us who experience the wilderness, be it from pictures, film, the window of a vehicle, or camping, inherently realize its importance and the need to preserve it.

I'm not interested in wielding any ethical hammer, or apostatizing, or serving as some model to emulate. My hope is that you will see some value in finding out how, and what, you can contribute to your stewardship, when you are in the wilderness. There are many organizations committed to, and articles written about, this subject. You will probably find one that resonates. Here's one that I am comfortable in suggesting - "Leave No Trace".

The German and the Husky

On the first night of our adventures, we ask participants why they opted to do the trip. Such was the case with one of our Chilkoot Trail trips. Reasons varied, but none intrigued more than Elke's story.

Elke was a German lady traveling on her own. She had been to the north before and wanted to see more of it. She recounted the events of her first visit to our group. We were drawn deeper and deeper into a wondrous tail (sic) of humanity and humour.

Elke worked for Lufthasna Airlines. She won an internal contest for two to travel anywhere in the world that Lufthansa flew. She chose Alaska. She had seen a documentary about Alaska and the Idatarod dog sledding race, and jumped at the opportunity to experience both. She and her husband flew to Anchorage to see the start of the race and then do some touring.

The Idatarod begins in Anchorage, in south central Alaska, and ends in Nome on the western Bering Sea coast. It is run in the middle of winter, through the Alaskan wilderness, in sub-zero temperatures, and covers over 1150 miles.

She thoroughly enjoyed the excitement, preparation, and anticipation of mushers and dogs in the days before the start. She was witness to the beginning of a race that would test each team's resolve against the winter extremes of nature.

With the days that remained, she wanted to explore as much of Alaska as was possible within limitations of distance and weather. She and her husband rented a car for a visit to Fairbanks some 400 miles away. And, that's where her real Alaskan adventure began.

Although the connecting road is maintained and plowed, there is not much traffic aside from the occasional car or truck in winter. Within a hundred miles or so of Fairbanks, on a very desolate stretch of road, they noticed something furry sitting in the middle of the road. As they got closer, they were forced to stop. Initially they were convinced that the animal was a wolf. After closer examination, Elke became convinced that it was a Husky - her experience of seeing so many at the start of the race. Her husband was not as convinced and cautioned Elke that it would be best to honk the horn and force the canine to the side, and carry on with their journey. She opened the car door against her husband's most dire objection. The canine walked over, past Elke, jumped into the car, and onto the back seat. This action resulted in a quick exit from the vehicle by Elke's husband. The animal assumed a seated position on the backseat and announced his comfort with a wagging tail. After some conversation, both Elke and her husband were sure that it was a dog - much to his relief. He still wanted to leave the dog on the road, as he was convinced that it must belong to someone in the area and they would be looking for him. Elke insisted that they bring the dog into Fairbanks and leave it at an animal shelter, as there were no houses in sight, or tracks in the snow, that would account for the dog's presence there. She would not forgive herself if the dog succumbed to the elements.

Being Sunday, they learned that the animal shelter was closed. Someone suggested that they seek help from the Alaska State Police. At headquarters, they related their story to a trooper on duty. He was taken by their concern for the animal and phoned the man who ran the shelter. Not altogether pleased to have his Sunday interrupted, he nonetheless agreed to the trooper's insistence that he meet them at the shelter.

Elke asked the animal shelter man what would happen to the dog. He said that they usually keep a dog for about a week. If no one claimed the dog, or no one else wanted it, it would be put down. Elke would have none of that. She told the man that if no one claimed the dog she would adopt it. After her husband's double-take, and attempt to reason her out of her foolishness, he finally just threw up his hands and resigned himself to her steadfastness.

They returned to Anchorage for the final week of their holiday. On Wednesday morning she decided to phone the animal shelter in Fairbanks to see if the dog had been claimed. It hadn't. The decision was to put the dog down that day. She implored, argued, groveled, for more time for the animal. There was no budging the man. Space was needed. She asked that nothing be done until she got there later in the day. She would adopt the dog.

She announced to her husband that they had to return to Fairbanks to retrieve the dog. He knew enough not to challenge her decision. She told him to check them out of the hotel and rent a vehicle. She was going to return to the Idatarod staging area, to the leader board, to see how the mushers were doing. While she was at the leader board, she got into a conversation with a man who recognized from her accent that she was a visitor. Was she staying on in Anchorage to see the final results? No. She then recounted her story and her need to rush to Fairbanks to save the dog from being put down. It turned out that the man was a reporter with a local paper. He saw a story here. He got the phone number to the animal shelter. When the man at the shelter corroborated Elke's story, the reporter said that he would run a story in the paper about his heartlessness to this German woman's efforts to save the dog. Not only that but that he would pass on the story to their sister paper in Fairbanks. The pressure of being identified to the local population was enough get the man to hold off until the end of the weekend. This would give Elke time to make all arrangements necessary to take possession of the dog, get vaccinations, and approval to take him to Germany.

She returned to the hotel to a perplexed husband who was instructed to check them back into the hotel and return the rented car.

Elke is now back in Germany. So is the newest member of their family - a Husky named Trooper. She named him in honour of the Alaska State policeman who had helped them so much.

(The most plausible theory of the dog's presence on the road was that it somehow jumped from a pickup truck without his owner ever noticing.)

West Coast Trail: Texas Grapefruit

"I have to warn you boss. You're apt to get a phone call from the Texans about their disenchantment with the West Coast Trail trip." Such was the ominous warning from my lead guide.

A few months earlier I had booked 6 members of the same Texas family to hike the West Coast Trail with us. They were a hodgepodge of cousins, uncles, brothers, and sons.

My lead guide reported that the family members were constantly at each other, arguing about this, that, family, politics, and whatever. No matter what the guide attempted to do to bring harmony to the situation, it didn't work. The two other members of the group were Germans with limited English who must have wondered about the theater of it all.

Every time the phone rang in the office over the following week or two, I expected the patriarch of this Texas group to be on the other end, ready to unleash a disgruntled tirade about our guides and services. But, no call came. I convinced myself that any dissatisfaction would manifest itself in telling whoever would listen, that doing a trip with us was tantamount to having a tooth pulled without freezing.

One day in the third week after the trip I answered the phone to a familiar southern drawl. I anticipated the worst and had prepared various talking points for every conceivable scenario that I could imagine - except the one he sprang on me. "Len, that was the best trip we have ever been on. We all had a great time. The scenery, the food, the guides - all excellent!" He went on to say that discord was a normal feature of their family gatherings, and the West Coast Trail was no different.

Somewhere, somehow, our conversation segued to a comparison of Texas grapefruits and California grapefruits. I am at a loss as to how that actually came about, but it did. An expected bluster of everything being bigger and better in Texas followed. He promised me that he would send along some Texas grapefruits to prove his point. People are well intentioned, but time, sense, and cost usually have people rethinking any promises made in the moment. I thanked him for his positive comments and his offer to send some Texas grapefruits my way.

Weeks passed and I had completely moved on from any thought of grapefruit ever arriving at the office. Then, the courier service appeared at the door!

After two trips to the truck and a strained expression on the courier's face, I was signing for two, very large, and heavy, cardboard boxes.

After prying open the boxes, I was surprised to see 48 of the largest grapefruits I had ever seen. It was more grapefruits than I could ever hope to consume without tilting my PH balance out of whack for weeks. My gosh! He had come through on his promise! And indeed, they were the largest, sweetest, most succulent grapefruits I had ever tasted.

What does one do with 40 grapefruit that I could not consume myself? Well, I went door to door in my condo with arm loads of grapefruit, knocking on doors, sharing the windfall, and relating the story more times than I care to remember.

Canoeing Assignment - Bowron Lakes

Got a guiding assignment - am off to paddle the Bowron Lakes with a group.

Taking my Italian wife along for protection. Ain't no bear gonna mess around with a Latin temper. - should be interesting!

As I am the only one in the office that can make Facebook postings, you'll have to wait a bit till the next one. Hope to have some wonderful photos when I return.

Thank you for following on my blog and facebook.

Backpacking Series: Sleeping Pad

Sleeping pads are the insulation barrier between your sleeping bag and the ground. With backpacking, space and weight are considerations when selecting the pad that serves you best. So, when viewing some of the options available, especially with inflatable models, the thickness may make you drool but the weight and size may be impractical.

Let's look at our options.

Closed Cell: You may come across a "R" with a number beside it when looking at pads. The "R" is its measure of resistance to heat loss. The higher the number the better its insulation properties.

Blue Foam - name comes from its colour. Relatively inexpensive, light, and is a good insulator. Anyone who doesn't find sleeping on hardwood floors and rock piles as comfortable may want to look further. You can determine quality by applying the pinch test. If foam rebounds quickly then it is good quality.

Yellow Foam - name comes from colour also. Basically same as Blue Foam except more durable and performs better in extreme cold.

Ridged Foam - name comes from look. Series of built in ridges (see sample photo) offers a little more comfort and insulation. Some models can be rolled and others folded. The folded model, since it operates on a hinged system, tends to be bulkier.



Inflatables: These pads are the preferred choice of most backpackers. They are lightweight and very comfortable. Most models are self-inflating and contain an open cell foam inside for better insulation. There are many models to choose from. Your frame will determine what length and width is most appropriate. Outdoor retailers will have models already inflated that you can test.

When you arrive in camp, one of the first things to do is release the valve of your sleeping pad and allow it to self-inflate. It does not completely inflate, but requires that you add what additional air you'd like to produce the thickness you find most comfortable.

When storing it at home, open the valve and allow it to self-inflate and put it away in this condition.

Therm-a-Rest NeoAir is the model that I now use. It doesn't include a cell foam inside nor does it self-inflate. But, it is extremely comfortable [ridge construction - see photo] , lightweight, and compacts for travel far better than anything else on the market. There is a non-slide lubricant that resists slipping off the pad during your sleep.

The down side is that you have to blow it up entirely - some people hate the fact that you cannot just slide into a new sleeping position - the regular model is not very wide.

May not be for everyone - test drive it before buying.

Pierre Trudeau on Canoeing

Pierre Elliot Trudeau was Canada's 15th Prime Minister. There was no fence sitting when it came to his popularity. Canadians either liked or hated him. But, no one could deny his love for Canada, his charisma, and the depth and breadth of his intellect. His death in 2000, resulted in an outpouring of national grief that had never before been witnessed in Canada.

The following is one of my favourite essays from a speech he gave. It was written in 1944 when he was still a young man, unaware of what history had in store for him. What surfaces is the passion and inspiration that would trademark his personal and political being.

I have taken the liberty to edit the piece for the sake of brevity, while, I believe, not affecting the essence of his words. There is a link at the end of the blog to the full text of the essay.

I would not know how to instill a taste for adventure in those who have not acquired it. And yet there are people who suddenly tear themselves away from their comfortable existence and, using the energy of their bodies, apply themselves to the discovery of unsuspected pleasures and places.

I would like to point out to these people a type of labour from which they are certain to profit: an expedition by canoe.

A canoeing expedition, which demands much more than that, is also much more rewarding. It involves a starting rather than a parting. Although it assumes the breaking of ties, its purpose is not to destroy the past, but to lay a foundation for the future. From now on, every living act will be built on this step, which will serve as a base long after the return of the expedition.

What sets a canoeing expedition apart is that it purifies you more rapidly and inescapably than any other. Travel a thousand miles by train and you are a brute; pedal five hundred on a bicycle and you remain basically a bourgeois; paddle a hundred in a canoe and you are already a child of nature.

For it is a condition of a [canoe] trip that you entrust yourself, stripped of your worldly goods, to nature. To remove all the useless material baggage from a man's heritage is, at the same time, to free his mind from petty preoccupations, calculations and memories.

On the other hand, what fabulous and undeveloped mines are to be found in nature, friendship and oneself! The paddler has no choice but to draw everything from them. Later, forgetting that this habit was adopted under duress, he will be astonished to find so many resources within himself.

My friend, Guy Viau, could say about our adventure, 'We got along very well with God, who is a damn good sport. Only once did we threaten to break off diplomatic relations if he continued to rain on us. But we were joking. We would never have done so, and well he knew it. So he continued to rain on us.' The canoe is also a school of friendship. You learn that your best friend is ...... someone who shares a night's sleep with you after ten hours of paddling at the other end of a canoe. How does the trip affect your personality? Allow me to make a fine distinction, and I would say that you return not so much a man who reasons more, but a more reasonable man. For, throughout this time, your mind has learned to exercise itself in the working conditions which nature intended. Its primordial role has been to sustain the body in the struggle against a powerful universe.

A good camper knows that it is more important to be ingenious than to be a genius. And conversely, the body, by demonstrating the true meaning of sensual pleasure, has been of service to the mind: You feel the beauty of animal pleasure when you draw a deep breath of rich morning air right through your body, which has been carried by the cold night, curled up like an unborn child.

How can you describe the feeling which wells up in the heart and stomach as the canoe finally rides up on the shore of the campsite after a long day of plunging your paddle into rain-swept waters?

Purely physical is the joy which the fire spreads through the palms of your hands. Make no mistake, these joys are exclusively physical. They have nothing to do with the satisfaction of the mind when it imposes unwelcome work on the body, a satisfaction, moreover, which is often mixed with pride. Now, in .......nature in its original state (rather than on books, ideas and habits of uncertain value), the mind conforms to that higher wisdom which we call natural philosophy; later, that healthy methodology and acquired humility will be useful in confronting mystical and spiritual questions. I know a man whose school could never teach him patriotism, but who acquired that virtue when he felt in his bones the vastness of his land, and the greatness of those who founded it."

Learn more about Trudeau.Read the full text of his writing.

Backpacking Series: The Sleeping Bag

Special Note: With all outdoor related products, manufacturers will offer a range of prices and item options. You will probably be guided by your needs and your budget. The top of the line products may include options that are unnecessary. On the opposite end of the spectrum are the cheap offerings. You can bet that there are reasons why they are the cheapest and you will most likely regret your purchase once you are in the field.

Purchase from manufacturers and outdoor stores who have an established reputation for customer service and satisfaction.

A full article about sleeping bags would be far too lengthy and complex to hold most people's attention. I hope to offer some basic information that you can expand upon when you visit an outdoor retailer.

Questions You Should Ask Yourself
Where will you be using the bag?
During which seasons?
Climatically, what will you most likely encounter?
Do you like to move around inside the bag or do you like a snug fit?
How much money are you prepared to spend?
Do you get cold easily?

Shape of your Bag
Mummy: narrow, close-fitting and are designed to save weight and maximize heat retention. They start narrow at the feet, get wider toward the shoulder, then taper to an insulated, fitted hood. Nearly all backpacking bags are mummy-shaped. Positive: The slim cut increases efficiency and saves space and weight. Hoods retain a lot of warmth. Negative: A big consideration for the claustrophobic type is the narrow shape can feel restrictive and inhibit sleep.

Rectangular: are warm-weather and built to be roomy. As a result, they let a lot of body heat escape. Many rectangular bags can be unzipped and used as comforters. Few have hoods. Positive: Lots of interior wiggle room. Negative: They're inefficient insulators, too heavy/bulky for most weight-conscious backpackers.

Tapered/Barrel: are narrow at the feet, broad at the hips and shoulders. You get more space than a mummy, but also more weight and bulk. Some offer hoods. Positive: Good heat retention and a little more room to maneuver. Negative: More room means your body has more space to keep warm; some thrashers still find them restrictive.

I prefer the barrel bag as I am one of those who cannot stand the restriction imposed by mummy bags. The lack of a hood can be compensated for with a warm hat. I also find the trade-off in weight to a mummy bag is negligible. In warmer weather I can unzip the bag and use it as a blanket which is not possible with a mummy bag.

Fill
There are two basic types of fill - synthetic and down. Down is the fluffy undercoating found just beneath the outer feathers of geese and ducks. Synthetic is basically plastic threads. Many manufacturers will have their own copyrighted fill based on weaving, material, and construction.

Down: works well for just about everyone except people who frequently find themselves in rainy conditions. Women often value downs warmth, softness and minimal weight. Positives: the warmth to weight ratio is excellent - it can be compacted into very small sizes - it far outperforms synthetic by many years. Negatives: if it gets wet it provides no insulation - takes along time to dry - can be quite pricey.

Synthetic: the threads are most commonly a long, single strand. Positives: less expensive than down -non-allergenic - still provides some insulation when wet - dries fairly quickly. Negatives:
it takes up more space than down in your backpack - heavier and takes more weight to get the same warmth down provides n- the fill gradually degrades over time - does not drape over the contours of your body as effectively as down.

Loft
Loft is the thickness of the bag. In combination with shape and size it will have a great bearing on warmth. A reasonable loft for a three season bag is 11cm/4 in to 14 cm/5.5 in. It is important to note however, that some people sleep warmer than others. You may require a greater loft.

Length
Make sure the sleeping bag is long enough to accommodate your body. Here's a general rule: If you are no taller than 6 feet, choose a regular length bag. If you are up to 6-feet-6, you'll want a long bag. If you are over 6-feet-6 take up basketball. If you are right on the border, maybe right at 6 feet or maybe half an inch taller, it's a judgment call on your part. If you choose a bag that's too short, you might tend to stretch a bag to make it cover you. Doing so flattens the bag and its insulation in spots, reducing its effectiveness.

Backpacking Series: The Boot

Special Note: With all outdoor related products, manufacturers will offer a range of prices and item options. You will probably be guided by your needs and your budget. The top of the line products may include options that are unnecessary. On the opposite end of the spectrum are the cheap offerings. You can bet that there are reasons why they are the cheapest and you will most likely regret your purchase once you are in the field.

Purchase from manufacturers and outdoor stores who have an established reputation for customer service and satisfaction.

There are boots for trail running, mountaineering, dayhiking, climbing, and of course, backpacking. Each has elements built into its construction to support the activity of choice. It's a daunting undertaking to approach the myriad of materials, boot constructions, and manufacturers on one's own.

My strongest recommendation to you is to visit an outdoors store where the choices can be explained and proper fitting take place.

As the series is about backpacking, the following will help shed some light on what to consider:

- backpacking usually involves hiking on uneven terrain, both on and off trail. As a result, a higher boot that will give support to the ankle and limit flexing and rotation is recommended.

- heavier soles offer better traction and foot support in most conditions that you may encounter. Soles that have been treated with an anti-slipping agent, such as with Vibram soles, are recommended.

- the materials that are available for boot construction are many and complex. There is full grain leather, fabric, plastic, suede, nubuck, and on. Most boots will be a composite of materials, stitched together. In general, the fewer seams a boot has the more durable and water-resistant it will be. My preference is a lightweight, full grain leather boot. It offers very good support, conforms well to the foot, easy to break in, can be waterproofed with a waxing agent, and, if looked after, with last for years.

- you can help a salesperson to fit you properly by explaining what use or trail conditions you will encounter. Don't waste your time with a salesperson or store that cannot offer complete guidance in making the right selection.

- don't be swayed by what looks "cool". Stay focused on what is appropriate for your situation.

- feet swell during the day. It is therefore best to shop for boots in the afternoon. Bring the socks
or sock combination you plan to wear on the trail when you go to the store.

- boot sizes can be misleading. Your regular shoe size may not dictate which size boot will fit you. Let comfort be your guide. Go up or down a size if necessary. Boots should be snug and not tight. When lacing them up, leave the bottom loose, snug at the instep and tight at the ankle. There should be very little movement sideways or up and down at the heel.

- if there is any discomfort, don't believe that it will go away with wear. If anything, it will intensify.

Boot Care
To lengthen boot life, it is advisable to clean your boots of dirt and mud. Some tips are:

- apply a boot wax to leather boots after cleaning. It maintains leather suppleness and helps with waterproofing.

- remove the laces as this will allow more thorough cleaning.

- scrape off caked on mud/dirt, brush off superficial dust, and wipe clean with damp cloth. Never use detergent.

- let boots air dry. Never place them too close to a wood stove or open fire.

- if boots get overly wet, stuff them with newspaper to help maintain shape.

Fort Langley Brigade Days

The Hudson's Bay Company established Fort Langley on the Fraser River in the mid-1800s as a shipment point to which interior fur posts would send their year's trappings back to England.

The furs would be packed into large canoes and these brigades of voyageurs would paddle down the various waterways of the interior of British Columbia to Fort Langley.

The occasion of the arrival of the brigades was greeted with anticipation and celebration. The Fort resonated with the trading, re-supplying, competitions, drinking, and partying from men who spent most of their days far in the interior. By summer's end, they would return to the interior and the cycle would be repeat itself.

Today Fort Langley is a Parks Canada National Historic Site. Every summer, to commemorate B.C. Day on August 1st, re-enactors come from all over B.C. and Washington State, to pitch their canvas tents and cook over an open fire. For three days they live in the Fort in a way that is as historically correct as possible. Visitors to the Fort are transported in time, introduced to a living past that would otherwise be but a two-dimensional reproduction in a history book.

See photos of Brigade Day celebrations.

Learn more about the history of Fort Langley.

Backpacking Series: Fitting a Backpack

The following information will assist you in choosing the right bag on your own or to insure that a salesperson is doing their job.

Your height does not determine which backpack is suitable. You need a measure of your back from A to B (see diagram).

Have a friend assist you. Tilt your head forward as it will help your friend locate the bony lump at the base of your neck. This is A. They can use a piece of masking tape for reference if necessary.

Locate the pointy protrusions (iliac crest) on the front of your hips by sliding your hands down the side of your torso. Once you locate the crest, point your thumbs (hands on hip pose) toward each other on a parallel line. Where this imaginary line (or placed masking tape) crosses the spine is B.

Your friend will then measure the distance, following the natural curve of your back, from A to B .

You will mostly likely fall into one of these 3 categories:
Small - up to 44cm/17.5", Medium/Regular - 45c m to 49cm/18" to 19.5", Large/Tall - 50cm/20" and up.

Armed with this information you can now try on some packs. Start with weighted items supplied by the store; items of personal gear packed into stuff sacks. Distribute these throughout a pack's interior, keeping the weight close to your body with the heaviest portion near your shoulder blades.

1. Loosen the pack's shoulder straps, loadlifter straps and hip belt. (see "The Backpack")

2. Slip your arms through the shoulder straps.

3. Position the hipbelt so it basically straddles your hipbones (iliac crest); close the buckle and make the hipbelt straps snug. The belt should completely, comfortably cover your hips, but its 2 ends should not touch. If the belt is too loose or too tight, reposition the buckle pieces on the hipbelt straps. If this doesn't give you a secure fit, you may have to try a different pack or hipbelt. Do not tighten your hipbelt excessively. Keep it snug, but if it's too tight or too long on the trail, you'll have sore spots on your hips the next morning.

4. Cinch the shoulder straps down tightly, then ease the tension slightly.

5. Look sideways in a mirror. The padded sections of the shoulder straps should wrap around the crest of your shoulders comfortably and attach to the frame about 2.5cm/1" below that point. No gaps should appear.

6. Check your load-lifter straps. These should attach to your shoulder straps at a point just above your collarbone and just below the top of your shoulders. From there, they should rise up to join with the frame at an angle of between 40 and 50 degrees. If the angle is higher than that, your frame is too long. Any lower and your shoulders will carry too much of the load.

7. Check the shoulder strap length and width:
• The buckle on the strap should be a hand-width below your armpit that it won't chafe.
• The straps should be far enough apart that they don't squeeze your neck, but close enough together that they don't slip off of your shoulders during hiking. The width is sometimes adjustable.
• Women need to pay special attention to the fit of shoulder straps. On some unisex packs, the distance between shoulder straps may be too wide, or the straps themselves are wide enough to gouge an armpit or breast. If you find a good fit is elusive, seek out a pack designed specifically for women.

8. Check for a good torso fit. If the pack fits you correctly, you should be able to redistribute the weight of the pack between your shoulders and your hips simply by loosening and tightening your shoulder straps slightly. Adjust the sternum strap. Position it about 2" below your collarbone. You should be able to breathe comfortably when the strap is fastened. It is not essential that you keep your sternum strap fastened at all times. It is most helpful when you are negotiating uneven terrain.

9. Check for comfort:
• Does the pack feel good on your back?
• Does it pinch or bind or unusually restrict your movement?
• Can you look up without hitting the pack with your head?
• Can you squat down without cutting off the circulation to your legs?

This may seem like a lot to keep in mind, but all of the above will become automatic as you gain experience. Now walk around with your pack. Climb and descend a flight of stairs. Hop from spot to spot. Reach. Walk a line. If anything is pinching, try adjusting the various straps.

Backpacking Series: The Backpack

Special Note: With all outdoor related products, manufacturers will offer a range of prices and item options. You will probably be guided by your needs and your budget. The top of the line products may include options that are unnecessary. On the opposite end of the spectrum are the cheap offerings. You can bet that there are reasons why they are the cheapest and you will most likely regret your purchase once you are in the field.

Purchase from manufacturers and outdoor stores who have an established reputation for customer service and satisfaction.

How big should your pack be? The length of your trip is one consideration. It will have to be roomy enough to carry your personal gear, clothing, and food. Backpacks are measured either in litres or in cubic inches, depending on your country's standard. For longer trips, 72 liters (5000-6000 cu.in.) is a good norm.

Another consideration is your body frame. Obviously the bigger/taller you are, the greater the capacity you can carry. The measure of the length of your back is used to good order in determining the right fit, (we will discuss this in more detail in our next article).

Finally, female torsos, hips, and shoulders will, more often than not, be smaller than a male's. It is therefore best for females to purchase a bag specifically designed for them. Fortunately, many of the top manufacturers have an array of excellent bags with design modifications for women.

How important are the hipbelt and other straps that adorn a pack? The principle behind carrying a heavy pack is that the weight should be borne by the hips and not the shoulders. For comfort and function, the hipbelt should be well padded, and the padded section should not meet in the front. There has to be ample room to tighten the belt. If fitting a bag, it is good practice to try on bags with the jacket you will wear while hiking.

The various straps that are found on good backpacks are functionally very important. Each has an engineering role to play in delivering the best backpacking experience. In essence , they help to mold the bag to the best position on your back. Compression straps will compress the load. The sternum strap helps to keep the shoulder straps from slipping to the shoulder points. The load lifters, besides doing what its name implies, helps also to pull the bag snuggly to your back.

It is best to stay away from bags that rely on too many zippers to close compartments, especially the main compartment. Zippers can break and dirt get into the teeth thus rendering the zipper useless and compromising the contents of the compartments.

Are more compartments better? This is very much a preference issue. I, as do most hikers and professional guides, like the one large compartment that is loaded from the top and then closed by a drawstring. The top flap of the bag is then draped over and cinched by straps.

With a little packing experience it's an easy matter to locate items you will most likely not need during the day in the bottom reaches.

An option that is most worthwhile to have is a detachable top section. Better backpacks will include this option. This top section thus converts to a daypack/fanny pack with an attached hipbelt which can be used for any day hiking from basecamp.

Backpacking Series: Trekking Poles

There is a legitimate debate about the value of trekking poles for backcountry hiking. There is a camp that consists of old guard, machismo, and younger hikers who view pole use as unnecessary and over-hyped. I used to be in the camp that derided the notion that poles made any difference.

A knee injury prompted me to employ the use of trekking poles. I saw this as a temporary measure that would be discontinued once the knee recuperated. During the process of healing, I began to appreciate the advantages of pole use. During steep sections, regardless whether it is dirt, boulder, mud, sand, scree, etc., poles helped established a natural pace/rhythm, balance, and, when descending, helped to spare pounding on the knees.

Limited studies have supported the notion that trekking poles do reduce impact on the knee joint. In a totally unscientific study, clients who hiked with us, and were given trekking poles by the company, were sold on their future use. I should add that one pole is better than none and two poles are better than one.

It is important to note that trekking poles are not a panacea for knee injuries or the need to institute a program of physical preparedness before you hike.

If you do decide to incorporate trekking poles into your future hiking, there are options available. You can use a long stick/staff (tend to be heavier than other options and clumsy to carry where some scrambling may be called for), ski poles, and the newer, lighter, and adjustable trekking poles. These come in varying prices dependent on features. A visit to your favourite outdoor store or web search will introduce you to these options.

There is an art to using trekking poles. They may initially seem awkward, but patience and familiarity will eventually make it a very comfortable experience. To assist you in their use you can view this video.

Good luck and happy hiking!

Sea Kayaking with Pacific Orcas

During my 23 years of guiding, I have been treated to many special moments in the outdoors. To rank one more special than another is like comparing apples to oranges. Sea kayaking in the orca waters of Johnstone Strait will remain one of those special moments.

Johnstone Strait is located near the northeastern tip of Vancouver Island in British Columbia. It is witness to one of nature's most fascinating annual occurrences. Families (pods) of orcas, also known as killer whales, congregate here during the summer months. Their arrival in the strait coincides with the return of Pacific salmon as they return to spawn in waterways along the B.C. coast. The orcas take advantage of the salmon's return to feed and to socialize with other pods.

The orcas fearsome reputation originated with sightings of them attacking whales and other marine life. The Romans coined the word "orca" meaning "demons from hell" and Spanish whalers referred to them as "whale killers". Recent research has established them as intelligent, social creatures.

Orcas are not whales but are the largest member of the dolphin family, with adult males reaching lengths of 10 m (33') and weighing as much as 10 tonnes (2200 lbs). A large dorsal fin on its back and distinct black and white markings make them easily distinguishable.

Orcas come in different types. Most of the orcas in the Johnstone Strait area are "residents". Resident orcas do not stray very far from their home waters and subsist mainly on salmon. Another type are the "transients". Transients roam over larger stretches of coastal waters, travel in smaller pods, and favour seals, sea lions, and porpoises in their diet. Finally there are the "offshores". Not much is known about the offshores as they travel a wide range and tend to avoid protected waters.

Socially, resident pods range from 20-50 members and are maternally ruled. Family units stay together and do not disperse. A maternal group may contain four generations whose ages could well parallel a human family. Females may reach an age of 80, and usually give birth around 15 years of age. Orcas belong to a matrilineal genealogy, that is, an individual’s ancestry is traced through it’s mother and her relatives. To avoid inbreeding it is thought that males mate with cows in other pods, so paternity is usually not known.

Orcas identify each other and other groups by vocalization called dialects. These high pitched squeals, squawks and screams form their “language”. To the trained ear it can be used to identify pods. Dialect also distinguishes resident, transient, and offshore orcas. The vocalizations appear to be used as a communication device to stay in touch with family members or to identify other orca pods. Different families do not appear to communicate vocally because they have different dialects.
Recent research development.

Find out more about orcas by visiting a research station in Johnstone Strait.

See more photos.

West Coast Trail: Phil Daykin Lightkeeper

It took a hardy individual to settle along the rugged west coast of Vancouver Island in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Communication to the nearest urban centre, Victoria, was limited to occasional visits from supply vessels and a telegraph system which would experience interrupted periods due to downed lines.

W.P. (Phil) Daykin, his wife and two sons, were the first keepers assigned to the newly built lighthouse at Carmanah Point. It was 1891. The lighthouse is situated along the present day West Coast Trail, and served as an important beacon to vessels with archaic navigational aids. Fog and coastal storms took their toll, as over 200 ships wrecked along this coast, resulting in it being called the "Graveyard of the Pacific".

Phil kept a daily diary during his tempestuous stay at Carmanah from 1891 to 1912. A man of few words, his diary offered little insight other than the occasional rant. If a supply ship was late, did not deliver what he ordered , or food spoiled, he freely complained to his superiors in Victoria. His gruff ways often irritated and alienated them. And he used expletives freely. His liberal verbal assaults may have been fueled by his frustrations, and/or his enjoyment of spirits, as a bottle of scotch each day was his rule.

The stay at Carmanah took its toll on Phil and his family. His wife Anna developed pneumonia and died in 1906. His youngest son William, 17, was killed when the line holding the supply trolley he was riding from the beach up to the lighthouse snapped and he was flung to his death. The other son Ted went hunting with a friend and failed to return to the lighthouse. A search party found their boat drifting on a nearby lake with all equipment including guns, but no boys. Their disappearance is still a mystery.

Age, depression, deteriorating health, and harsh conditions caused Phil to ask for reassignment to a less demanding location. His request was constantly denied, as superiors offered a litany of reasons why reassignment was not possible. More likely, his earlier complaints and undiplomatic relationship with superiors, influenced any hope of any new posting.

Finally, Phil was assigned to an easier responsibility, the lighthouse in Victoria. Irony of ironies, as he developed pneumonia and died within the year. It was 1912.